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As Greenland prepares for tourism increase, a moment of stillness among the icebergs

A piece of ice broken off from an iceberg floats in the ocean.
Grace Widyatmadja/NPR
A piece of ice broken off from an iceberg floats in the ocean.

Updated March 03, 2025 at 13:02 PM ET

Greenland is opening up to the world.

The remote island, home to about 57,000 people, will soon be more accessible than ever to international tourists. Greenland, an autonomous territory of Denmark, has been expanding airports and hotels to energize the economy.

Later this year, there will be seasonal direct flights from the U.S. to Greenland's capital, Nuuk, for the first time. That means visitors will be able to travel from the East Coast to Nuuk in roughly four hours.

Local tour guides, like Jan Cortsen, see this as a moment of opportunity.

"I'm welcoming people because I want to show my beautiful country to other people," Cortsen said during a boat tour to view the icebergs.

The sunset reflects off of an iceberg in Ilulissat, Greenland.
Grace Widyatmadja/NPR /
The sunset reflects off of an iceberg in Ilulissat, Greenland.
Jan Cortsen's boat sails by Halibut Greenland company in Ilulissat Harbor on Feb. 18, 2025.
Grace Widyatmadja/NPR /
Jan Cortsen's boat sails by Halibut Greenland company in Ilulissat Harbor on Feb. 18, 2025.

Cortsen lives in Ilulissat, a small town of fewer than 5,000 people just north of the Arctic Circle. Its glinting white and sapphire blue icebergs and scenic fjords are among its most popular attractions. There are plans to open a new airport in Ilulissat next year.

Jan Cortsen is all smiles as he takes NPR out for a ride.
Grace Widyatmadja/NPR /
Jan Cortsen is all smiles as he takes NPR out for a ride.

"We want to develop as a city and people," Cortsen said. "When the new airport comes, I want to be the biggest tour company in Greenland."

In 2023, foreign tourism added nearly $270 million to Greenland's economy, according to Visit Greenland, the national tourism authority.

Some pieces of fish left to dry in Ilulissat Harbor.
Grace Widyatmadja/NPR /
Some pieces of fish left to dry in Ilulissat Harbor.
NPR's Juana Summers holds a piece of iceberg in her hands.
Grace Widyatmadja/NPR /
NPR's Juana Summers holds a piece of iceberg in her hands.
Boats frozen in sea ice in Ilulissat Harbor.
Grace Widyatmadja/NPR /
Boats frozen in sea ice in Ilulissat Harbor.
Grace Widyatmadja/NPR /
Grace Widyatmadja/NPR /

Cortsen is part of a collective of Inuit tour operators. He wants to make sure that as more tourists visit the island, the money they bring goes to local businesses, rather than to foreign operators.

"We want to be together because we want to be stronger, because we want to show what we locals can do in our own country," he said.

He added that he wants to share "the real Greenland" with other cultures.

Copyright 2025 NPR

Grace Widyatmadja/NPR /
Grace Widyatmadja for NPR /
Grace Widyatmadja/NPR /
Grace Widyatmadja/NPR /
Jan Cortsen is part of a collective of Inuit tour operators. He says being out in the water is his "second home."
Grace Widyatmadja/NPR /
Jan Cortsen is part of a collective of Inuit tour operators. He says being out in the water is his "second home."
Grace Widyatmadja/NPR /
Grace Widyatmadja/NPR /

Juana Summers is a political correspondent for NPR covering race, justice and politics. She has covered politics since 2010 for publications including Politico, CNN and The Associated Press. She got her start in public radio at KBIA in Columbia, Mo., and also previously covered Congress for NPR.
Matt Ozug
[Copyright 2024 NPR]
Ashley Brown
Ashley Brown is a senior editor for All Things Considered.